Tallin, Estonia, Where Beauty Comes in a Small Package

We knew very little about any of the Baltic countries, and probably the least about Estonia.  It turned out to be quite a surprise then, when I led us and some new cruise friends on a self-guided walking of the city of Tallin, and every turn brought a new beautiful sight.  In the end it was one of the highlights of the cruise!

136 Our first view of Tallin

Our first view of Tallin

We were able to walk to the walled, Medieval town from the ship, and we entered through Fat Margaret’s Tower – the large, fortified gate that protected the city of Tallin from attacks that came via the harbor.  Immediately inside on the curvy main road were three, skinny buildings that were homes to wealthy merchants in the 1500s.

The Church of the Holy Ghost dates to the 14th century, and features an incredibly detailed clock on the outside.  Just past it, down “White Bread Lane” which was traditionally a baker’s street, an archway led us into Town Hall Square.  The giant building that looks like a church is in fact the 15th century town hall.

Town Hall Square also sports a pharmacy that dates all the way back to 1422, and is still in service today.  We had fun looking around at all the odd stuff in there.

Then it was time for the all-important stop for food!  We found a beautiful lunch spot where we shared wine and snacks with our new friends.

Up a hill and through a gate, we reached the old city of Toompea.  Tallin was originally two separate medieval cities that didn’t exactly get along with each other.  Even though it’s one city now, the gate between the two was where the leaders of the towns would meet to conduct discussions.  Just past the Danish King’s Garden is one of the old lookout towers with the (childishly amusing) name of “Kiek in de Kök.”  It means “peek in the kitchen” – a reference to what the guards there would do.  Nevertheless, I couldn’t resist cracking a grin every time the name came up.

196 Yup, its still funny

Yup, it’s still funny!

Beyond the garden and the still-giggle-worthy tower is the stunning Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.  This is the place you see on tourist brochures of Estonia.

200 Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

The church is a functioning Russian Orthodox church, and was built intentionally facing the Estonian parliament building as a reminder by Russia that they were there.  The parliament building itself is the pink Toompea castle.  I’m sure being pink, it makes a statement, I’m just not sure what.

201 Inside the cathedral

Inside the cathedral

203Toompea Castle Estonian parliament building

Toompea Castle

As if we hadn’t seen enough churches already, the Dome Church was next.  It dates back to the 13th century and is filled with wooden coats of arms of wealthy merchant families.  The smaller the coat of arms, the older the family.

There was one more amazing view of Tallin, before we exited the Old city through the Viru Gate and were back in the real world.

Apparently I had tired our friends out with my comprehensive tour, so Stephanie and I were now on our own.  She wanted to explore the newer area of the city a bit, so we kept going once outside the gate.

255 Old Tallinn looks all castle-y

View of Old Tallin from the new part of the city

Looking back, we paused at the sight of our favorite small city in the Baltics.  Then there was only one thing left to do, of course…stock up on Estonian candy!

258 Estonian candy

Estonian candy

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Let the Baltics Begin

Latvia is one of the last places I ever expected to find myself.  (Okay, maybe Yemen or Afghanistan are less likely.)  Having no idea what to expect, we decided to download a self-guided walking tours and explore on our own.  Boy am I glad we did!

Come with us now as we visit the historic Old Town of Riga, Latvia.

One of the most notable buildings in Riga is the House of Blackheads.  The Brotherhood of Blackheads was a guild for unmarried merchants in the 14th century.  Apparently being unmarried made one ineligible to join the Great Guild (whose building is much less impressive).

24a House of Blackheads, Riga Latvia

House of Blackheads, Riga Latvia

31 Museum of the Occupation of Latvia

Museum of the Occupation of Latvia

Unfortunately, the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia was closed.  It details Latvian occupation by the Soviets and Nazi Germany.  It was also our first look a genuine Soviet-era building where functionality was clearly much more important than design.

We left the medieval old town, and walked past Freedom Monument to Riga’s Art Nouveau district. This area of town is recognized by UNESCO as having the largest collection of Art Nouveau buildings anywhere in the world!

94 Victory holding a wreath

Victory holding a wreath

As a bonus, a local Latvian butterfly decided that Stephanie’s shoulder was a good spot to take a rest for a bit.

On our way back to the ship, we passed the ruins of the old city wall as well as the famous Cat House.  The legend goes that a merchant who was denied membership in the Great Guild commissioned the building and placed two statues of angry cats with their raised tails pointed towards the Great Guild Hall. Eventually, he was accepted, and had the cats turned around.

We also checked out the Swedish Gate which runs right through the ground floor of a 17th century house.  It supposedly brings good luck to wedding couples who walk through it.  We walked through it just in case that luck is still good 13 years later.

131 The Swedish Gate

The Swedish Gate

We brought our visit to Latvia to a close by starting a new “tradition.”  Up until this point of our transatlantic cruise, we happened to purchase a local treat (or two) in every port we stopped at.  I declared to someone that it was our tradition to sample the local treats in every port. When Stephanie responded “It is!?”  I declared, “Well, it is now.”  We went easy in Latvia.  Only four items to sample…

135 Latvian Candy

Latvian Candy

 

The Changing of the Guard (and also Copenhagen)

Sixteen Days flew by just like that, and suddenly our transatlantic cruise was docking in Copenhagen, and it was time to change our mindset and get ready to explore the Baltics.  So what was different about the two cruises?  Well to begin with, a 16-night transatlantic sailing typically attracts a different type of passenger. Often, those with more time, and more money.  Usually these are older cruisers.  I don’t want to say that they were a whiny, complaining, self-entitled bunch… so I won’t say anything.  They were also overwhelmingly American.  The Baltic sailing was much more international with a lot more Europeans, Asians, and children on board.  It made for a completely different vibe.

The transatlantic cruise was 16 days of relaxation, interspersed with ports we had (mostly) been to before.  The Baltic sailing was to be seven new countries in a row.  Each with new sites, culture and candy to explore.  Most importantly, our friends Ben and Caitlin were joining us for this sailing, and we were looking forward to seeing them.

So what’s it like to spend all this time cruising?  Well, a picture is worth a thousand words.

On the transition day, we took a local bus into Copenhagen to do some exploring while the ship transitioned off the first batch of people, and welcomed the new cruisers on.  We really wanted to get inside City Hall, but it was closed for a wedding.  Fortunately, we would be spending a few days here with Ben & Caitlin after our cruise of the Baltics.  We did see the famous Round Tower, and found a lovely park in which to stroll around.

With time running out until our ship sailed, we made the decision to go see the Little Mermaid statue.  This statue was a gift to the city of Copenhagen to commemorate the works of Hans Christian Andersen.  By the time we got there, we had about 20 minutes to snap a photo, and find the city bus back to the ship.  A panicky crisis was averted when we saw a bus labeled “Free shuttle to the cruise port.”  We were able to relax enough to get some tourist-free photos of the Little Mermaid, and enjoy a nice leisurely ride back to the ship where we made it with seven minutes to spare before “All Aboard.”  Bye Copenhagen.  See you in ten days!

336 The Little Mermaid

The Little Mermaid

Back on board, we got settled into our new cabin.  Originally, we had arranged to stay in the same cabin for the entire sailing.  But when the price for our Baltic cruise dropped dramatically, Royal Caribbean offered us a free stateroom upgrade.  Our “guaranteed ocean view” cabin ended up being an extra-large balcony cabin all the way up on deck 10 (right next to the suites).  Usually, we stay down in the depths of the ship, so it was weird being so close to the top.  We both decided that while the views from the floor-to-ceiling windows were spectacular, we prefer being lower down so we can get some exercise on the stairwells. In fact, in 26 days of cruising, we used the elevators exactly once (by accident).

1003 Our huge stateroom

Our huge stateroom

Another factor that made the Baltic cruise a little more fun was that we had at last achieved diamond status with Royal Caribbean. What did that mean for us? It means some free photos, some free internet, and various other discounts.  Best of all, it means free drinks. The free drink menu, however, is very limited.  For example, you can get tequila, but not triple sec, so t-e-c-h-n-i-c-a-l-l-y, you can’t get a margarita. Fortunately we found a bartender who was willing to make me my daily ‘rita for free, and they were damn good!

Margarita

More importantly, Ben and Caitlin were on board at last.  Let the frivolity commence!

1004 Ready for a night on the town

Ready for a night on the town

 

Tiptoe Through the Tulips

Amsterdam was the last port of call on this transatlantic sailing that we had visited before.  Originally I thought we might not even do anything in Amsterdam, as we had spent several days there last time and had done everything I thought we wanted to do.  That was before Stephanie remembered that the Netherlands are famed for their tulips, however, and it turned out that we were going to be there around the right time for their big show!  We were a little late, but due to a colder-than-usual spring, the tulips were still blooming.

The place to see tulips is a botanical garden called Keukenhof featuring over 7 million blooming tulips.  But taking a bus there is the boring way to do it, and we don’t do boring things.  (Unless you count filing taxes.  That’s pretty boring.)  Instead, we took a train from Amsterdam about 15 minutes to the town of Haarlem.  From there we rented bicycles for the 40km round trip to Keukenhof.

But before we could be on our way, we had to run the gamut of silly little problems of the sort that crop up when you’re doing something new for the first time.  To begin with, the (somewhat brusque) bike rental guy couldn’t tell us how to get to Keukenhof, so it was off to a bookstore to buy a map of the area.  Back at the bike rental shop, he then told us he needed a €100 cash deposit.  Couldn’t you have told us that the first time, dude?

In no time at all we were on our way – to getting lost.  We thought we were following the verbal directions we were given by several different people, but we kept going in circles. At least Haarlem is a pretty town!  At last we found the road we needed, and we were headed south.  The Netherlands take their cyclists very seriously, and we had two lane bike paths that were somehow routed to get around the automotive traffic circles without having to stop for any cars!  We even had our own traffic lights.  The best part was how often cars yielded to us.  So different from some other places we’ve ridden.

 

The other nice thing about riding through the Dutch countryside is how pretty the scenery is.  In addition to Downton Abbey’s stunt double of a house, we passed plenty of tulip fields.  Because we were there so late in the season, most of the fields had been beheaded.  It turns out that the bulb is the valuable commodity, not the flower.  And so the flowers are chopped off the stems so the bulbs can be sold. Still, some of the tulips had escaped their fate, and were blooming prettily for us.

Stephanie's tulip dream has come true

Stephanie’s tulip dream has come true

 

At last we arrived at Keukenhof along with some 30 tour buses, eleventy billion bicycles and what seemed like half the population of Beijing.  Keukenhof, however, is so big (almost 80 acres) that it really didn’t feel all that crowded inside.  The tulip displays were beautiful with so many varieties we had never even seen before.  There was also an orchid display, a flower carpet and even a wind-powered windmill.  Take a look….

 

 

 

 

 

Seeing the tulips in Holland was something that Stephanie has wanted to do for decades, and was really special for her.  Even I found myself getting all excited about them.  Not bad for a non-flower guy.

After retracing our bike and train steps, we found that we had some time to spare so, we thought we’d walk around downtown Amsterdam.  Whoa!  If we thought Keukenhof was crowded, it was nothing compared to Amsterdam itself.  After about five minutes, we decided we’d had enough and headed back to the ship.

 

If you’re planning on visiting Amsterdam, let me offer you two pieces of advice.  First, don’t go during the height of tourist season unless you like crowds of slow-moving people all following someone carrying a flag.  And second, there’s something a bit fishy about the “Coffee Shops” they have there.  As you walk past them, they smell less like fresh brewed coffee, and more like a Neil Young concert I once attended.  Just sayin…

No France For You!

The next port of call on our trans-Atlantic was Le Havre, France; or so we thought.  We had been excited to go see the beaches of Normandy.  We even watched a documentary a week before the cruise in anticipation!  Unfortunately, the port workers in France had other designs.  They were on strike, as were the pilot boat operators, and so we could not dock there.  Instead, we went to Dover, England – home of the famous White Cliffs of Dover.

119 The White Cliffs of Dover

The White Cliffs of Dover

120 I can see why they're famous

I can see why they’re famous

Dover turned out to be a charming little town.  After spending a few hours in the library using their WiFi, I dragged Stephanie off for that most important of British traditions: fish and chips.  The way to find the best food anywhere you go is to ask the locals, so we did, and we were pointed to a little take-away joint that apparently wins awards for its fish and chips.  This was one of those food experiences where I was tempted to go back for more despite being full – simply because it tasted amazing.

We tooled around the town exploring shops and parks and admiring the quaint architecture and how the streets all seem to curve in that oh-so-British way.  We walked up a huge hill to Dover Castle, but at more than £20 person just to get in, we decided that our photos and memories of Blarney Castle would serve us just fine.

There was only one logical thing to do. It was time to hike up the White Cliffs and check out the views.  We had seen the cliffs before on our crossing of the English Channel from London to Paris, but this time we could get up close and personal. It was only about a half hour by foot from the center of town to the visitor’s center up on the cliffs.  As the land dropped away behind us, the views just got better and better.  The cliffs themselves are white because they are made largely of calcium carbonate (aka chalk).  Considering how soft and soluble chalk is, it’s amazing that the cliffs have stood for so long.  They reminded me of The Cliffs of Insanity from The Princess Bride.

Next stop was Bruges in Belgium.  We spent about five days here before and completely loved it.  We were still in touch with our couch surfing hosts, so we had arranged to meet them. Unfortunately a communications snafu led to delayed transportation.  Once we realized we had to make the short run into Bruges on our own, the shuttle was sold out.  We took a different shuttle to the town of Blankenberge, only to find that we had *just* missed the train to Bruges, and the next one was in an hour.  That was fine with us!  We explored Blankenberge a bit, and checked out the seaside promenade.

By the time we got from the port in Zeebrugge to Bruges itself, we only had about two hours to spend there, so we had to be efficient.  This is Belgium, and in terms of edibles, it’s known for four things: chocolate, waffles, beer and French fries.  Guess which one was most important to Stephanie.  We wasted no time at all in heading to local chocolate shops.  Stephanie’s favorite of all the Belgian chocolates is Leonidas, where she hand selected a whole pile of assorted truffles to sample.  My favorite is Neuhaus – more expensive, but seriously yummy.

Elliott's favorite Belgian chocolate

Elliott’s favorite Belgian chocolate

As a result of our quick turnaround, our friend Pascal wasn’t able to make it, but Yannick met up with us, and took us through more of Belgium’s culinary delights.  We went to Chez Vincent’s, for what Yannick said were the best fries in Belgium.  Remember what we said about trusting the locals when it comes to food?  Well, the line out the door backed up Yannick’s claim, and we were not disappointed.  French fries were actually invented in Belgium, and I believe they truly are the best in the world.  They have a double frying technique that renders them crispy on the outside, yet soft on the inside.  By the way, the trivia buff in me wants you to know that the word “French” refers to the way the potatoes are sliced, and not the country of origin.

Elliott, Yannick and the best frites in Bruges

Elliott, Yannick and the best frites in Bruges

Lastly, we stopped for a Belgian waffle. Again, it was amazing.

174 Finally - a Belgian waffle

Finally – a Belgian waffle

Suddenly, it was time to go.  Yannick, sweetheart that she is, walked with us (and her bike) back to the train station, and waited with us on the platform until we pulled away.

Back in Blankenberge, we stocked up on Belgium chocolate to bring home with us.  The Belgians take their chcocolate VERY seriously.  As a result, the stuff in the supermarkets is held to the same high standards as the artisan chocolate houses.  We took it easy, and only bought about €30 worth to take home.  With our case of chocolate in hand, we felt our quick return trip to Belgium was a complete success!

177 Our Belgian candy haul_cr

Our Belgian candy haul

Blarney…Tastes Like Chicken

After sailing across the Atlantic, and spending nine glorious days at sea, we finally reached the Emerald Isle.  Okay, I’m jumping ahead a bit.  Let me back up…

We had this amazing Royal Caribbean cruise booked that sailed out of Copenhagen and covered seven Baltic countries.  (Look for details in future posts.) While Stephanie was diligently researching the best airfare, I happened to discover that the sailing right before ours was a transatlantic crossing.  What better way to arrive in Copenhagen than having spent 16 days already at sea?  Finally, Stephanie cracked under my relentless hinting and we booked our first ever back-to-back sailing.

The transatlantic leg began with six days in a row at sea.  Now, for those of you who have never cruised before, you should know that sea days can be even better than port days.  There are so many activities, shows, and of course, opportunities to eat.  We always tell people “If you’re bored on a cruise ship, it’s because you’re trying to be bored on a cruise ship.”  We spent our time relaxing by the pool, reading magazines, cross stitching, ballroom dancing, winning trivia contests, going to the gym, making friends, watching movies in the ship’s cinema, playing miniature golf, climbing the rock wall, and of course, eating.  As you devoted followers of this blog know, we usually travel pretty hard, so having a week of forced relaxation was heaven.

We did actually call in another port before Cork, Ireland, but if I had started with Ponta Delgada in the Azores, the opening for this post wouldn’t have had the same “gotcha” factor.  In truth, we had been to Ponta Delgada before when we were traveling around the world in 2012.  The Azores are beautiful islands belonging to Portugal, and located in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.  The only reason Ponta Delgada was less notable this time is simply that it rained all day, and so we didn’t do much on shore.  Stephanie and I did manage to wander around the town for a bit, and of course, we found the obligatory free Wi-Fi so we could catch up on the important goings-on at home.  In the end, however, we were glad we didn’t have big elaborate plans for the day.  We tried some local hot chocolate to stay warm, and looked in the local stores to see what types of treats and candies they had.

Ponta Delgada was just as we remembered it with interesting patterns in the sidewalks made out of black basalt and white limestone.  No two are alike.

Another two days at sea saw us to the port of Cobh, Ireland.  Cobh (pronounced “cove”) is just a quick 25-minute train ride away from downtown Cork, which in turn is only a 25-minute bus ride from famed Blarney Castle – home of the famed Blarney Stone.

The castle itself is exactly how one pictures an old castle: equal parts ominous and charming.  We climbed the narrow, spiral stairs to the top where we hung upside down over a 40 foot drop and planted our lips where thousands of other people planted theirs before.  It’s a bit of a cliché, but it’s one of those bucket list things, so we did it anyway.  See….

The grounds of Blarney Castle are huge and varied.  Our first stop was the poison garden where they grow toxic plants including hemlock, belladonna, and nightshade.  Stephanie was delighted to find that Harry Potter favorites mandrake and wolfsbane are actually real, live plants and not just made up for the series.  The garden even had cannabis.  I never thought of marijuana as poisonous, per se, but just in case, it was safe in a cage where no one could accidentally lay their hands on such a toxic danger.

The Poison Garden

The Poison Garden

We strolled through glades and glens, saw waterfalls and caves, and even found a swing for Stephanie to play on.  There is a rock staircase called the wishing steps where if you walk up and down it backwards with your eyes closed, the Blarney Witch is said to grant your wish.  (Stay tuned for confirmation.)  We also strolled through the Pinetum which I’m sure is pronounced “pine-ee-tum,” but we had fun calling it the “pine-tum.”

Rock Close Waterfall

Rock Close Waterfall

Back in Cork, we discovered Dealz.  Dealz is to Ireland what Poundland is to England or a dollar store in the U.S.   Now, having British parents, I know a thing or two about candy from the U.K., and Dealz had great prices on two of my all-time favorites: Fry’s Turkish Delight, and jelly babies.  I know I went into detail about jelly babies once before on this blog, but they’re worth mentioning again.  So much better than jelly beans!  I may have gone a wee bit crazy stocking up on British candy. (A note to the jelly baby purists:  I looked for Bassetts, but couldn’t find them anywhere.  Crilly’s taste exactly the same.)

The UK candy stash

The UK candy stash!

What we saw of Cork was nice, but between the trek to Blarney Castle and the candy, we didn’t really get to see the town itself.  So, as with many places we’ve been on our travels, we resolved to come back again someday.

Turkish Delights in Cappadocia

I liked Istanbul’s character immediately when we arrived. Everywhere you look you see pretty minarets dotting the skyline. Salesmen offer you hot tea on the street in actual glassware complete with a single cute little sugarcube. And although there’s still not much of a “personal space” concept, people apologize when they bang into you. Not everything is great. High-rises have advertisements in the windows five stories up. Smoking is all around, and people don’t even think about the fact that they have a cigarette hanging out of their mouth when they enter a small space with you. But whatever you like/dislike about Istanbul, it would be hard to argue it lacks character.

My true sites before arriving in Turkey, however, were set on the historical region of Cappadocia. A few nights ago Elliott and I boarded an overnight bus for a 10 hour ride to the town of Göreme in Cappadocia. Our bus ride was mostly uneventful except for two things. One – we finally gave in and paid to go to the bathroom at the rest stops. Sometimes there’s just no other way, despite our objections! (E’s note: I’m still fuming about this!) Two – the bus company provided us free drinks and snacks! They even had a little collapsible cart that they pushed up and down the aisle. Wow, that beats most domestic US Airlines these days. 🙂 (They also had personal entertainment sets for each seat providing movies, music and games on demand, but, unfortunately for Elliott, everything was in Turkish.)

I slept a fair amount on the bus and woke up in the wee hours of the morning to see snow on the ground. Luckily, an hour later we had traveled to a warmer area where there was no snow. Although I didn’t totally object, I was hoping to see the town of Göreme snow-free, at least at first. As we drew closer, the fairy chimneys, about which I was so excited, started to come into view. The fairy chimneys are rock formations made of sandstone which look to me like sand castles, often complete with windows and doors. The Göreme Valley was originally formed by volcanic ash, which later hardened into sandstone, and eventually was sculpted solely by erosion. It served as a home to an entire culture of Byzantine people starting in the 4th century. People carved refuges, residences, storage areas and churches in the fairy chimneys. In short, it’s amazing, and I’d argue it’s as pleasing as some of our best National Parks back home.

We thought we’d arrive in Göreme and take a nap after a long night on the bus. Instead, we headed right out after meeting our host so we could explore this beautiful place. Our first stop was the Open Air Museum, a Unesco World Heritage Site. It consists of a large group of monasteries cut out of the rock, mostly from the 10th-12th centuries, each with its own dining room and church. Several of the churches still contain their original frescoes on the walls and ceilings. We didn’t notice the “no camera” icon outside the first church, so lucky for you we have some photos of the frescoes in that one church, even though we shouldn’t. I wish we had more – the frescoes were that beautiful.

Here’s some more info on the Open Air Museum in Goreme: http://www.goreme.com/goreme-open-air-museum.php

Later that same day, and again the next day, we hiked in the valleys of Göreme. We hiked to and then in the Rose Valley, which is filled with rock containing rose-colored stripes. We searched for the Red Valley but I don’t think we ever found it; to our credit, the “trail markers” consisted of random red arrows painted on the rock in a totally haphazard, and often conflicting, manner. Oh well. It will be a goal for next time. The scenery was gorgeous, and we never knew what we might come upon. We explored endless fairy chimneys. We loved climbing up inside of them, finding room after room, guessing the use for each room. Many of the fairy chimneys have windows and doors that are multiple stories high; Elliott speculated the ground must have been much higher once upon a time, or the original residents must have used some kind of ladder system. On our second day, though, we climbed inside a fairy chimney and found a staircase and tunnels in addition to the rooms. Maybe there were “ways up” on the inside many of these buildings that we couldn’t even imagine!

Another day, we took a local bus to the town of Nevşehir and then Kaymakli. The big attraction in Kaymakli is the Underground City, built around the 7th or 8th century BCE. People built underground cities all throughout Cappadocia (36, to be exact) back then so they could live in them, hiding from marauders and conquerors. (Kaymakli is actually connected to another underground city,Derinkuyu, by an 8km tunnel.) It is estimated that the underground city in Kaymakli goes eight or nine stories down, although only four stories have been cleared out and are open to the public at this time.

At the Turkish Bath the night before, those Italian guys told Elliott we should hire a guide for the Underground City, as there isn’t much information there. As usual, we decided to check it out ourselves before making a decision. We arrived early when the site opened, and the only other people there were in a tour group in front of us. At first we were bummed that we’d have to “follow them”, but we soon realized our pace would not keep up with theirs.

How cool! We were all alone, underground, in dimly-lit rooms, caves and tunnels, all open to our exploration. There were red arrows to follow as you went in, and blue arrows to follow back to the exit when you were finished. (Luckily there were no conflicting arrows here.) Some of the rooms had labels such as “living room”, “kitchen”, and even “winery”. Wow! The people living down here were clearly doing okay if they were as well off as to have wineries. Some of the rooms were for food storage – I noted there was ample room for chocolate supplies. And Elliott pointed out that one of the unlabeled rooms was obviously the “grill and fry room”, used for cooking hamburgers and French fries.

We also came upon huge stone “wheels” occasionally that were used as doors to block off entire passageways when the people living there needed to run from intruders. There were plenty of unlit areas as well that certainly required exploring, so we were extra happy to have out flashlight. Each time we found a dark tunnel, we followed it until we started to get too freaked out to continue further. One thing we noticed was the low ceilings in many of passageways. I’m still not sure if it was just too much effort to dig higher ceilings, or if people were much shorter back then. But by the end of the day, we each had several lumps on our heads, my backpack had a few tears in it, and both our backpacks were covered in dust!

Here’s some more info on the Underground City in Kaymakli: http://www.goreme.com/kaymakli-underground-city.php. I thought it was pretty cool to learn that the local residents of Kaymakli today still use some of the tunnels as cellars and stables, which they can access from their courtyards!

The next day we had decided to take it easy as it was an anniversary of sorts (our engagement, yay!), and we were ready for some relaxing. To our surprise, we woke up to some falling snow! I was super excited – now I’d get to see my fairy chimneys in their natural state, *and* in their snow-covered state. We got dressed and hiked up any roads we could find in order to get to a good vantage point for photos. On the way we found a house (or maybe a hotel) under construction – perfect for exploring!Eventually we came to a platform way up on a hilltop. It was windy and the snow was cold blowing in our faces, but the views did not disappoint. All my sand castles were suddenly white.

Elliott could not get enough local Turkish food, so we tried a few new dishes while in Göreme. My favorite was the Lahmacun, a Turkish pizza of sorts with a very thin crust and a good kick to it. The price was right too, at only three Turkish Lira (about $1.65). We always ordered apple teas along with it, which were not only tasty, but helpful in curbing the heat in our mouths. Elliott also loved the Pottery Kebap, which he ordered especially for our anniversary. This is meat and vegetables cooked in a pottery urn which is sealed with a hunk of bread. It needs to be cracked open with a hammer in order to enjoy the yummy Turkish goodness within. Fortunately, there’s a seam along which it cracks, and no pottery shards end up in the food. Unfortunately, the bread it is sealed with is apparently not edible, but it sure looked good.

On our last day in Göreme, we walked 8km to the town of Avanos, known for its pottery and ceramics. When we arrived we also found a river, a suspended bridge, and a pretty mosque. We ate a picnic lunch by the river and then walked across the bridge, jumping up and down to make it more fun. The mosque had a sign that said it was open for visitors, so we took our boots off, went inside, and found we had the entire place to ourselves! What a treat. Eventually we came across the pottery shops and workshops, and had fun as we were escorted by shop owners through room after room after room of handmade pottery and ceramics. Most of the businesses there were family owned, and our “guides” were very proud of that, telling us what each of their family members made.

Between all the amazing sites and tasty food, we were definitely loving the Turkish Delights!